Deep neckline theory

Instructor : Savitha
Skill Level : Beginners 00:09:08
Views (2650)
Rating (17)
Class Description

You must have encountered problems of the shoulder of the dress slipping or falling off.  This happens when both necklines are deep and there is no support. To avoid this we need to make some adjustments in the shoulder measurement and this class explains the changes to be done in your pattern. 

Class details

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Q : Mam mujhe computer cad our printer ki jaankari mil sakti hai - Sathish1 (1 month ago)
A :

Sure, will check. 

Please whatsapp me on 8861939391

Q : Mam when going deeper in both front and back neck what will be the change in sholder slop? - Suman (1 year ago)
A :

When you reduce 1/4 and 1/2" from half shoulder, you may keep the shoulder slope at 3/4" and when you come in by 3/4", shoulder slope can be 1/2" and when you reduce by 1 to 1.5", reduce to 3/8" slope. 

Q : Dear ma’am do we have to apply Deep neck theory even if the front neck depth is 5.5or 5”. - Smiltha JyothiKumar (1 year ago)
A :

If one of the necklines is high, that will provide support to the blouse shouder. If both necklines are deep, then apply the theory.

Q : I am from UK and have done pattern cutting; all english clothes. Pls can you tell me, if you reduce the shoulder, would you reduce the corresponding shouler on the front too or are there no alterations to the front, thaks - Ramila Patel (1 year ago)
A :

When you reduce the shoulder, you do it for both front and back patterns. Shoulder measurement is reduced only when both necklines are deep. 

Q : I'm confused regarding where to start ...bcoz only den I can draw back deep neck ... please help ... - Aayushi (2 years ago)
A :

Replied under your previous query.  Revert for further clarification. 

Q : Mam if my shoulder is 14.5 so half is 7.25 so in the drafting shoulder we will take 7.25 and then from there draw armhole line down and cut 1 inch and draw shoulder curve at 2.75 and 1 inch back neck depth or first take standard 7.5 in shoulder and den draw shoulder curve at 1 inch and 2.75 inch ??? - Aayushi (2 years ago)
A :

You may first mark the standard 7.5" half shoulder and draw the slope line and then reduce the shoulder as per the deep neckline theory. 

Q : Okay mam if my front neck is 3"nd my back neck is 7" (shoulder 15" )if back neck line is deeper the max I can reduce is 3" na mam . 2) front neck is 7th nd back is 3", here I can reduce half inch from half shoulder ah mam ? Kindly differentiate this mam - Divya (2 years ago)
A :

If front neck is 3"  deep and back is deeper or vice versa, you may reduce 1/2" from half shoulder measurement. 

Q : Hai savi mam,1) front neck is 3" and back neck depth is 1" & in another case front neck is 7" nd back neck is 1". My actual shoulder measurement is 15" .. what changes will make in both cases mam - Divya (2 years ago)
A :

In both cases no need to reduce from shoulder measurement as one of the necklines is high and will provide support to the garment at the shoulder level. Only when both necklines are deep, the shoulder needs to be reduced. 

Q : Hi Madam, if the neck width is 4" and the back neck depth is 1", will there be any changes made to the shoulder width? - Renuka Menon (2 years ago)
A :

No changes, you may apply the full shoulder measurement. 

Q : Hi mam,if shoulder is 14 or 13 inch ... Back neck is 8 inch deeper means, shoulder will be 5.5 inch or 5 inch? Is tat correct? - Thangam (3 years ago)
A :

That's right.

Q : Hi Savi, pls advise for both kurti and blouse if we have any neck theory like this if I want my front neck to be high with wider neck width. Something like boat neck but not as wide as boat neck. Kindly give your inputs. Thanks - lavanya (3 years ago)
A :

Hi, guess I answered this under your question in Bundle course. 

Q : What about the back arm hole curve?draw the new line and mark as usual? - Manasa Senthil (3 years ago)
A :

yes, the shoulder will shift for both back and front if both necklines are deep and then you draw the curve as usual for back. 

Q : Good Day Ma'am.if say my shoulder. Length is 13 I want to make back neck line say 7 inch I will start deducting 1 inch from 7.5 standard Bank measurements or from 6.5 inch which is half of my actual shoulder length.. - Ria (3 years ago)
A :

Good day to you. 

You will need to reduce from your 1/2 shoulder measurement [not 7.5"]. Going forward kindly post your question below the bundle course that you have enrolled for. It is easier to followup. 

Q : Hi savi thanks for this clss. Suppose I am applying deep neck theory for a back neck deep of 7 inches kurta. So I reduce shoulder by 1.5". This makes my armhole really big. It becomes 1" Bigger than the original nondeep sloper. So what changes must I do to the sleeve crown? . Drawing chestline more up is not helping in reducing armhole curve. - Diya (3 years ago)
A :


This was explained in the tutorial. When you reduce the shoulder in lieu of the deep neckline, you shift the chestline up. Also when you measure the armhole curves if you find it bigger than actual, you shift the chest line up to reduce the curve. 

Q : Hi ma'am,could you please explain how to calculate beyond 15 inches..when you are explaining kindly tell us about 2xl and 3xl also. It will be very helpful . Thank you - Veena (4 years ago)
A :


What is the 15" you are referring to?

Q : Hi Savi, can this neckline theory be applied to blouse.? Recently I stiched katori blouse as per ur teaching.....there is only problem with shoulder is falling off of that blouse.. - Sampada karmarkar (4 years ago)
A :


Deep neckline theory can be applied for kurits/dresses, for saree blouse it is slightly different.  Kindly post your concern about the blouse  in the Q & A below the katori blouse class, will sure clarify.

Q : I reduced 1/2 inch from half shoulder mam. - karthiba (5 years ago)
A :

Then you may take 3/4" from midpoint to draw the front armhole curve. 

Q : For kurti if shoulder is 61/4 or 61/2,should v have to draw 1/4 or 1/2 " inwards in half front armhole curve? My front and back neck 6" and 3" respectively - karthiba (5 years ago)
A :

How much have you reduced from your half shoulder measurement ?

Q : Hi savi .. Can this deepneck theory be applied to sleeveless kurtis as explained in the video ? Or some modifications is needed? TIA - Diya (5 years ago)
A :


Yes, it can be applied for sleeveless Kurtis too.  Also you may please refer to our class on "Sleeveless yoke kurti". 

Q : Thank you mam.... - Subarnalatha (5 years ago)
A :

You are welcome. 

Q : Hi mam, in deep neckline theory, why do we move the armhole line when we go on deep for backneckline... What is the difference... Pls explain - Subarnalatha (5 years ago)
A :


When doing deep necklines at back and front, the garment will not have much support at the shoulder and will expand and that is the reason the shoulder is reduced. The armhole is adjusted because as you bring the armround line inwards due to lesser shoulder slope, the line length increase. So we move it slightly up.

Q : hi mam, when we take back neck deep as 6 inch, back arm hole goes deep inside than front arm hole. then what would be the sleeve patttern??? thanksnin advance - Shilpika (5 years ago)
A :


Sorry did not clearly understand your query. When you reduce the shoulder in lieu of deep neckline, it is done for both front and back. 

Q : hi savi , i have dress with has 8.5" deep front neck, 10.5" deep back neck & near shoulder it is 2". is deep neck theory applicable. i am stuck here. is deep neck use only for blouse?please clear my question. i am trying to understand . thanks a lot. - Aruna (5 years ago)
A :

Hi, Our free tutorial on 'Deep neckline theory' may be applied for Kurtis/dresses when both necklines are deep. For saree blouses we have explained in the First class of the saree blouse course that is Class1-Choli blouse. 

Q : hi savi, i am very happy to find u. ur teaching is excellent.i have question if back neck is deeper than front ho w do i use deep neckline theory. thanks - Aruna (5 years ago)
A :

Hi, thanks for your appreciative words. 

This deep neckline theory is applicable when both the necklines are deep.  If your front neckline is normal depth and back is high, then you don't need to apply this theory, but as the back neck deepens for every 1" depth you may reduce 1/4" from the 1/2 shoulder measurement.  


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About the Instructor

12971 Students 95 Courses


Instructor Profile

Ms. Savitha has been conducting classes in Pattern making and sewing since the year 2010. She started with her Online classes to reach out to more students. Her words, "I love sewing and teaching and I have been lucky to be able to make my passion, my profession. I try my best to simplify things and teach in a simple and easy way so that even beginners in pattern making and sewing are able to learn from our online classes and make their garments with professional finish".


Student Feedback


Average Rating
10-03-2018 Preethi

Extremely Well explained! Thank you!

21-05-2018 Fahmi

explained really well

07-07-2019 Pradeepa

Very clear explanation. Thank you so much man.