How to draft basic body sloper

Instructor : Savitha
Skill Level : Beginner 00:12:25
Views (11097)
Rating (23)
Class Description

We have lots of free tutorials to help you start your journey in the world of sewing. The classes are designed to help beginners to comfortably start sewing your own clothes. With our free tutorials you can learn from using the sewing machine to completion of a garment. Also learn making bolero jacket with invisible seams, salwar pants, attaching zipper, plackets and many more.
There are classes on tips and tricks of sewing which would help you to sew in an easy and professional way.

In this class, learn application of measurements. Learn to draft the basic body sloper using the body measurements you have taken. 

While drafting the body sloper, apply the measurements that you have. 

Class details

Class 1 - Drafting body sloper 00:12:25

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Q : how to measure bust point?my bust size is 40" and chest is 42. - Madhumita (1 year ago)
A :

From shoulder measure to the highest point of the bust.  For bust round 40", it can be around 10.5" or 11".

Q : Hi Savitha, hope you and your family are doing well and good. Before writing this question i have read all the Q&A discussions in the below column. And from that i understood that we can follow the same theory for 11 year old girl also right? So deep neckline theory also applicable for this age group? Please correct me if i am wrong and request you to guide me in this. Thanks in advance. - Monica (1 year ago)
A :

I am good thanks. 

Yes you may apply the same theory for 11 yr old too. 

Q : Hello, hope you are doing well! What will be the minimum neck width for a 7 year old girl child? You mentioned in your free beginner's bundle that minimum neck width for an adult is 2.75". Similarly, to get the shoulder slope, you said to mark 7.5" on the shoulder line and then 1" to get the slope. What would these measurements be for the child? - PARINITHA (2 years ago)
A :

I am good, thanks. Hope you are fine too. 

You may divide the chest round by 12 and keep that as the neck width. Shoulder slope can be kept around 1/2 to 3/4". 

Q : Mam, here armhole depth is taken from armhole round or sleeve round? - PR (2 years ago)
A :

By Armround/biceps measurement.  Kindly watch the class on taking body measurements where taking both armround and armhole measurements are shown. 

Q : hi savi, thanks for your online classes and starting out with some free classes. noticed that you give an ease of 0.75 inches on the chest round but did not do so on the bust round. why is this? - Swathi Padmanabhan (2 years ago)
A :


On bust we do not give ease as it gets enough ease when you add ease on chest and waist. When you connect from chest to waist, the bust should be accommodated within the side seam line.  

Q : Some classes tells that while drafting the front neck you have to measure the neck in cross and as per your video its a straight line ... what is the exact difference in both and which is more accurate method - Aparna (3 years ago)
A :

We follow the straight method but you can measure cross too.  Whichever way you take the measurement on body is how you should apply on pattern. 

Q : Dear ma'am ..Good Day.Thank you so much for the easiest way of teaching .ma'am my first query is in basic body draft you took the measurements of bust ,waist and hip from onfold side while in dart class you took the same measurements from the shoulder little confused.plz help - Ria (3 years ago)
A :

Very good day to you. 

When you make a fitted garment with darts it is important that the vertical measurements like Bust point is marked accurately. Hence the measurements were marked from the shoulder slope. You may do the same for a basic kurti/dress too. However, slight difference in a loose garment would not make much difference. 

Q : Hi Savi, I saw your tutorials on net and found it easy. I have one query, if i want to se a simole kurti for my daughter then also do i need to follow the same calculation for shoulder as given in the video or is there any other method. As you said that its a standard measurement for adults then how should i take it foran 11 yr girl. - Aparna (3 years ago)
A :


Even for a 11 year old you can follow the same. May be reduce the shoulder slope to around 3/4". 

Q : Mam , when front and back neck depth increases,is der any variation n shoulder width ? - vyshnavi (4 years ago)
A :

If both necklines are deep, there is no support for the dress at the neckline and can drop. Hence the shoulder is reduced. Please watch our class on "Deep neckline Theory" to know how much to reduce. 

Q : Mam, Is it Shoulder and ArmHole measurement should be equal? - vyshnavi (4 years ago)
A :

Not necessary. Mark according to your measurement. 

Q : Hi Mam, Very Much glad and pleased by seeing ur free tutorial vidoes, also excited to start my sewing. Mam while drafting body meaurements shoulder slope should b drawn initally accordingly to front and back neck theroy? like if i hv my bust size 38 inches , infront and back deep r 6 and 8 inches respectively , den hw much measuremt should i take for shoulder and neck width - vyshnavi (4 years ago)
A :


Once you decide the neck depth, accordingly reduce the shoulder measurement [as taught in our Deep neckline theory tutorial] and mark the shoulder.  First mark the basic neck width and 7.5" on the shoulder line and draw the shoulder slope.  Then mark the reduced shoulder measurement [as per deep neck] and at that point draw the armround line downwards. 

Q : Hi mam my doubt is my armhole is 17 and my arm round measurement is 13.but when iam drawing armhole with arm round measurement both front and back are not coming equal.In my case it should be 8.5 plus ease ..but front its coming but back it may be less what is solution.Hope u will revert. - Aiswarya (4 years ago)
A :


That's alright. When you measure the front and back curves if you get your armhole measurement plus a little extra, it will be fine. 

Q : Do u have a standard measurement chart for women kurti? - Diya (4 years ago)
A :


It is shared in the last part of our Class 1 of Kurtis foundation course [How to give darts in a garment]. 

Q : How do we draw a sloper for deep necks? - Tejaswini (4 years ago)
A :

Please watch our free tutorial on "Deep neckline theory". The link is below: . 

Q : Hi, u said the chest line can be draw 1/2” below , if we do so do we have to make any changes in sleeves,because the arm round measurement would change after changing chest line right... - R San (5 years ago)
A :

Yes, you need to do it for sleeves too but after drafting sleeves, measure the front and back curves and see if it matches with the body pattern. 

Q : Hello mam, my armhole is too tight even though increased my armround length... Should I need to increase my chest width pls reply - Subarnalatha (5 years ago)
A :


First step towards making a well fitting garment is taking accurate body measurements. Kindly double check your measurements and also check if they are marked correctly on the pattern. 

Q : Hi savi this method works very well and I am glad i took more classes with you. I have a query please help me. WHen must the deep neck theory be applied ? What is the sequence of steps in drafting. Because the deep neck theory is a separate video this is not quite clear. How to fis drastically big armholes after deep neck theory is applied? and how to rectify the altered strap widths ? Am i missing something :( - Diya (5 years ago)
A :

Answered in your similar other query. 

Q : Hi mam, your videos are very superb, neatly explained, very easy to follow... Thanks for that - Subarnalatha (5 years ago)
A :

Thanks for your kind appreciative words.  Kindly take sometime to post a review/rating below the class. 

Q : Hello mam... I want to learn kurti pattern in detail.. how to calculate armhole and sleeves can u help me in this ? which paid tutorial i have to do then ? - Sonali (5 years ago)
A :


Armhole and sleeves drafting is shown in our free tutorials. If you have not yet watched our free classes, you may start with the FREE BEGINNERS COURSE under ONLINE CLASSES - BUNDLE DEALS. After that you may start with the Kurthis foundation course Class 1 - How to give darts in a garment. 

Q : Hi Savita, I have been trying to draft the pattern for kameez and sleeve but I am finding it difficult to fit the sleeve into the armhole because the sleeve is too big. I have adjusted the chest line but it still does not work. Please could you take a look at the images. - Farida Dedat (6 years ago)
A :


Always after drafting the body pattern, measure the front and back armhole curves and see if it matches with the body armhole measurement plus ease given on chest. If less/more, shift the chest line down/up and redraw the curves. After that draw the sleeves pattern and again measure the front and back curves and see if it matches with the body pattern. If less/more, increase/reduce the ease and redraw the curves. The way you have drafted looks fine, however, you may need to increase or decrease the ease to match with the body pattern. 

Q : My armhole round is 17.5". My shoulder is 15". I am finding half armhole from shoulder slope down 8.75" is too big? Can you please correct me? - Rozmina (6 years ago)
A :

You need to apply 1/2 of your arm round measurment [biceps] not armhole.  

Q : How much does a set square costs and do you supply? - Bhuvana (6 years ago)
A :

Big set square is available in the SUPPLIES section of our website -

Smaller set squares are also part of our pattern making kit. 

Q : What is the paper used to drafting? - Bhuvana (6 years ago)
A :

It is called pattern paper. It is similar to brown book binding paper [without laminate] but longer and wider. You may buy these pattern sheets on our website under SUPPLIES section. The link is here:

However, you can also use any other paper for drafting the pattern. If the paper is not wide and long you may join two or three sheets using cello tape. 

Q : Hi, Thank you very much for your prompt response. Bust round of the Dummy is 40 Inches. - SUNNY MANGLICK (6 years ago)
A :

You are welcome. 

The arm round would be approximately 13.5" and armhole 17.5". Sleeve length is 5- 6" and sleeve open can be kept at 12.5".

Q : Hi Savi, How are you doing? Recently i have Join you Online classes and they are very interesting and easy to learn. I have a Question regarding the Chest Line marking. In your video you have explained that Chest line half of the Arm Round measurement. Now i am making a Pattern for a Kurti and i have taken the measurement of the Dummy/ Dress Form. In Dummy we don't have the Arms in it. So i dont have Arm Round measurements & Sleeves Length Opening Round with me. In this case how we will calculate and mark the Chest line? - SUNNY MANGLICK (6 years ago)
A :

Hi, thanks for your appreciative words. 

This is not a real life scenario, however please let me know the bust round of the dummy. Based on that will tell you the approximate arm round measurement. 

Q : I made this for measurements where bust size was 32. The fron neck gaped at the center by 1 inch. It could be because of the hollow chest. The neck deep was normal like 5". How could I have rectified this before hand ? You suggest taking in 3/4 inch at armroundline . Had I taken in by 1-1.5 inches would this resolve the issue ? Please let me know. - Diya (6 years ago)
A :


Are you sure the neckline isn't stretched which may be causing the gaping? If that is the reason, an easing stitch at the neckline [as shown in our free class on fixing a stretched neckline] should resolve the issue. 

3/4" is the standard we take at mid armhole which suits most women. However, if when you see the person you are making the garment for  has a shoulder more bent towards the front [which may cause a hollow chest] you may need to take some additional measurements like the front measurement from chest centre to mid armhole of one side by which you will know if you need to change the 3/4". 



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Ms. Savitha has been conducting classes in Pattern making and sewing since the year 2010. She started with her Online classes to reach out to more students. Her words, "I love sewing and teaching and I have been lucky to be able to make my passion, my profession. I try my best to simplify things and teach in a simple and easy way so that even beginners in pattern making and sewing are able to learn from our online classes and make their garments with professional finish".


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